Nothing beats quality time on routes to improve your climbing performance. But why limit your physical and mental training to hours spent on the crags or in the climbing gym? By balancing out dedicated climbing practice with a focus on overall strength, stamina and health, beginner and seasoned climbers alike can achieve better results on the wall. We’ve compiled a list of eight activities that complement your climbing with the insight of experts including Eli Strauss, head climbing instructor at New York City’s The Cliffs at Long Island City.

8 Ways to Balance Your Climbing Training

1. GET WET

Whether your goal is to nurse an injury back to health, increase your core strength or up your endurance, a few laps in the pool will benefit your climbing.

The downward path the arms follow in swimming is similar to the reaching and pulling movements in climbing, “so those muscles get an even better workout,” Strauss says. And because swimming works “more or less every muscle group in a very low-impact environment, the injury risk is miniscule.”

By strengthening your back and abs so your fingers don’t have to do all the work, swimming can also help prevent common over-use injuries in climbing like tendonitis.

2. OM TO THE TOP

Climbing is not unlike yoga in that it’s often necessary to embrace unnatural positions in order to reach new heights – think hanging upside down or balancing on tiptoes to reach that crucial pinch.

But even between cruxes, a regular yoga practice is “one of the best things for rock climbers to do,” Strauss says. The most obvious benefit is increased flexibility. But flowing through gentle poses synced with controlled breathing also trains razor-sharp focus and works the antagonistic muscle groups. As a result, you’ll be stronger and less injury-prone in climbing.

Keep up at least a weekly practice to see consistent results. Your mind and body will thank you for it once you’re back on the wall.

3. WALK THE LINE

Slacklining is one of those activities that helps improve your climbing, but it’s hard to pinpoint exactly why. “The histories of the two sports have been linked more or less since rock climbing became a thing,” Strauss says.

There are as many versions of the roots of slacklining as there are modalities, but most accounts lead back to Yosemite Valley in the 70s. The Stonemasters, a group of “counter-culture guys” who pioneered rock climbing as it is known today started slacklining for fun, according to Strauss. Much like walking a tightrope, slacklining is a low-impact way to fine-tune your balance and basically “everything you need for climbing, just in a different capacity,” Strauss says.

If you’re trying it for the first time, fasten the line between two sturdy anchors like trees. First, practice keeping your balance on one foot. When you can stay steady for around 10 seconds, try taking a few steps. To up the thrill factor, rig the line over water (not too high!) and get creative with tricks like jumping, sit-walking or running.

4. HIT THE PAVEMENT

It’s common for climbers to neglect cardio activities like running or cycling. But improved aerobic fitness will translate to better results on the crags, especially on longer routes.

“Climbing is a very anaerobic sport,” Strauss says. “We don’t get winded in the same way, we don’t get our heartbeats up the same, we don’t get that endorphin rush. But having that level of conditioning and background is always advantageous because, more than anything, it allows you to recover faster and go longer.”

The best cardio workout for you depends on the nature of your climbing sessions, but some experts suggest spending 70-80 percent effort for periods of 25-35 minutes.

5. STRENGTHEN WITH CARE

Round out your training plan with time focused on building climbing-specific strength through weightlifting and body-weight exercises like pull-ups, tricep dips and campus board.

“Because climbing is such a specific action, our cross-training turns out to be really specific as well,” Strauss says. Campus boards – wooden boards with rungs you climb up using only your arms – are “an awesome way to increase grip and strengthen over almost anything else,” he adds. But it’s also easy to get hurt. For beginners, just practice hanging on and holding up your body weight to start.

Budget a two- to three-month period in your training program for intense strength-training tailored to your climbing goals. Then, keep it up just enough to maintain the base you’ve built.

6. GET VERTICAL

Although bouldering can seem like an easier, less intimidating way to start climbing than top-roping, Strauss recommends getting “used to your body vertical before you start trying difficult movements” that bouldering requires.

There’s no doubt that bouldering is fun and beneficial for your climbing. But because it’s also harder, progress is slower. “It’s hard to stay invested in a sport you don’t feel like you’re making progress in,” Strauss says. Spend time top-roping on easy routes, and you’ll soon be able to last longer and reach your goals in bouldering. In turn, you’ll build the strength and skills you need to start tackling more challenging routes on a rope.

To get started, choose an easy or familiar route and climb it three times as quickly as you can without taking breaks. Do a set of five, and then repeat the exercise on a few different routes. Got that down pat? Try it once more, but this time with your eyes closed!

7. TAKE IT EASY

Serious climbers can be reluctant to take more than a day off the rock for fear of getting weaker. But in reality, rest is one of the most important aspects of any training program.

“It’s a very fine line because a coaching cliché is you need to climb a minimum of three days a week to see constant improvement,” Strauss says. “But, especially as a beginner, you should not be climbing back-to-back days necessarily.” Rest doesn’t have to mean refraining from all types of physical activity, but from those that focus intensely on the same muscle groups as climbing.

On days when you do climb, don’t skip your pre- and post-stretching to help your body rest and rebuild. How long to rest depends on your training regimen, but experts suggest taking 24-72 hours between climbs.

8. FUEL UP

Because climbing is more of a lifestyle sport than one you get into for fitness, climbers tend to be less focused on overall conditioning and health than other types of athletes.

“Obviously the pros are paying very close attention,” Strauss says. “When we as amateurs want to get better at a sport, in any other sport we’re paying attention to what we eat, we’re paying attention to our weight, to our caloric intake and stretching.” Climbing should be no different.

The first step is being aware of what you’re eating and following general nutrition guidelines adapted to your needs. On climbing days, drink water before, during and after your ascent, and bring along a banana or other piece of fruit for a healthy source of fuel. When you’re done for the day, be sure to take in enough protein to ease your recovery.

Anyone can learn to rock climb and boulder. You don’t have to have crazy upper-body strength, guts of steel and wallet-breaking gear to join the ranks of climbers.

But for beginners, the sport offers both addictive rewards, getting your adrenaline pumping and letting you enjoy some premium views with interesting people while you’re at it, and a new culture with unique physical and mental challenges. We consulted with climbing experts including Randi Alegre, instructor and youth coach at New York City’s The Cliffs at LIC, to bring you these seven tips for progressing as a climber and having fun in the process. 

7 Tips to Improve Your Climbing (and to Have Fun Doing it)

BE PATIENT

It’s important to remember that in climbing, as in life, the joy is in the journey. It’s true that the goal of any bouldering problem or climbing route is always to get to the top, but don’t cheat yourself out of enjoying all those small hurdles you have to overcome on the way up. Stay in the moment, and not only will you have more fun, but you’ll set yourself up for success by keeping your focus on the move at hand. According to Alegre, if you think too far ahead, “You won’t be ready for the next sequence…and you’ll fail to execute a crucial maneuver.” Solve one puzzle piece at a time and savor each small success.

At the same time, don’t get discouraged if progress in your climbing is slower than you’d like. Alegre explained that while it’s possible to make speedy gains in strength, your body can’t adapt to the unique demands of climbing at the same rate – “all those muscles you never knew you had and tendons and ligaments you’ve never conditioned.” With practice, you’ll get there. But be patient!

GET TO KNOW YOUR OWN STYLE

One of the great things about climbing is there’s no perfect way to do it. Some even call it an “art of self-expression.” It’s all about ascending as efficiently as possible and having fun doing it.

No one will deny that learning from more experienced climbers is an excellent way to improve your technique and ensure you’re climbing safely, but it’s also true that what works for one person may not work for you, and vice versa. Alegre suggests taking the time to get to know yourself and discover your own rhythm and methodology for reaching the top.

Climb in as many different settings and with as many different people as possible. For those confined to an urban jungle, see how many climbing gyms you can try out. If you’re lucky enough to have nature at your doorstep, aim to train on various types of crag. Even attempting the same climbing route or problem in a few different ways can help you learn what works for you and what doesn’t.

USE YOUR WHOLE BODY

It’s common for beginner and intermediate climbers to think their arms are the only tools than can pull them up the rock wall. However, letting go of this misconception and learning to trust and use your whole body – “everything from your toes to your nose along with an iron will,” as Alegre put it – is the first barrier every climber has to overcome in order to progress. Alegre introduces his students to the idea of walking up a climb rather than pulling yourself up it. Instead of initiating the upward movement with your arms, practice standing up before you flex your arms.

When you’re climbing with ropes, learn to let your body rest at comfortable points on a route. When you get to a place with solid holds, rest with your arms stretched straight and knees bent. Then, let one arm go and shake it out. Practice these two moves on easy routes until they become ingrained. You’ll need them to prevent the dreaded pump when you tackle harder challenges down the road.

TRAIN YOUR BRAIN

Let’s face it – training your body is non-negotiable in order to improve your climbing. However, focusing on physical conditioning without training your mental game is like trying to climb with long fingernails and clunky shoes. You may find your way to the top, but you’ll likely encounter some unnecessary frustrations along the way.

Before you even hit the wall, take a moment to mentally map out the route and visualize yourself reaching the top. Train your confidence and build a solid base by practicing on many different types of routes with all kinds of holds. At the same time, some experts say to stick mostly to routes at your level until you feel confident and can climb around 80 percent on-sight. It can be fun to try harder challenges every once in a while to see what the next level feels like, but remember, you’re building a base!

STAY SAFE

Before you get vertical, no matter if it’s at the gym or in nature, dedicate yourself to becoming an expert on the proper safety procedures. After all, your life depends on it. Take a course at a gym with a qualified trainer. When you pass the final exam, practice intensely until everything you’ve learned becomes second nature.

Also, make a point to train with more experienced climbers whenever possible to solidify your knowledge and pick up good habits. In fact, choosing your climbing companions is not something to take lightly. It’s important to climb with people you trust, who motivate you and who you enjoy spending time with to stay safe and have the most rewarding experience possible.

GET OUTDOORS

Indoor facilities are great for training, learning, and especially, coming into contact with the climbing community. But nothing will get you more excited and motivated to climb than getting out into nature.

Whether you’re bouldering or rock climbing, once you’ve mastered the safety procedures and feel comfortable indoors, find a way to get on some natural rock. Don’t let a lack of gear – or company – stop you. Contact your local climbing gym or outdoor retailer to get in the know about local sites, equipment rental and any organized trips that may be on the horizon. Then, pack some water and healthy snacks and make a day of it.

LEARN THE LANGUAGE

From the first day you enter a climbing gym, you’ll get the sense you’ve stumbled upon a unique subculture complete with its own way of speaking, moving and interacting. The tribe-like vibe can be intimidating for newcomers, but wander deeper into this world and you’ll find a social, supportive community.

The first step to feeling more comfortable is getting to know the jargon. Don’t be afraid to ask others if you don’t understand a term or expression – even expert climbers had to start somewhere. For more studious types, online climbing dictionaries on sites like Climbing.com can be useful. Learning the lingo will ease your interaction with fellow climbers on and off the wall. But more importantly, flawless communication is critical for safety, especially when climbing with ropes.

Another tip for feeling both more authentic and more comfortable when you climb? Invest in a pair of climbing shoes. They don’t have to be on-brand or expensive, but they should fit your feet snugly without making you suffer.

photos by Randi Alegre