Category: Climb

  • An Anatomically Correct Nut Tool for Climbers

    Just last week, a new climbing tool was launched on Kickstarter, and it’s causing quite a stir in the climber community. Dick’s Nut Tool is a nature-inspired nut tool designed in Portland, Ore., for crushers who want to send hard.

    What’s a Nut Tool?

    First used by British climbers in the 1950s, “nuts” are used to chock cracks for protection while climbing. Occasionally, nuts get stuck, and the hooked tip of a “nut tool” is used to hammer them out.

    Made of stainless steel 304, Dick’s has a Rockwell hardness of 70 and is almost twice as strong as aluminum, making it capable of busting out nuts in a multitude of shapes and sizes.

    The company was founded by Dick Cocksure in 2015, and recently, while ascending the rugged rocks of Lake Tahoe, Dick reflected on why he climbs and why he set out to revamp the nut tool:

    There’s just something magical about climbing, the way it stimulates so many parts of my body and brain at once. It leaves me totally awed.

    dicks-nut-tool

    Less than one week into the crowdfunding campaign, Dick and his team have raised almost 20% of their goal, and they’re absolutely delighted to see folks relishing the fruits of our labor.

    Campaign backer Andrew Traylor of Mountain Refugees writes:

    As a diehard old-school traddy, I’m naturally disgruntled by any new innovation in climbing technology. It just chafes me the wrong way, like a pair of cotton undies after a week in the Winds. So when I saw Dick’s new sparkly thing, I was pissed. How dare he make improvements to a product that already exists? Does he not understand that the initial form of any device is the most true and pure form achievable?

    The only thing that allowed me to even touch the damn thing was his encouragement of placing nuts. The more nuts, the better in my book. So I reluctantly took hold of this crack-probing implement and took it for a spin. To my surprise, it fulfilled my needs — my nuts have never moved so quickly! I’m happy to report its aid in removing hexes, wooden chocks, and stashed ham sandwiches from various fissures. I no longer cringe seeing Mr. Cocksure’s device swinging be- low my swami belt. I’ve decided that I’ll let it stay on my rack, for now.

    Echoing Andrew’s enthusiasm, A. Osborn writes from Portland, Ore.,

    I was following this off-width, really giving it all I had. It was way out of my league, but my leader was a babe, and I didn’t want to disappoint. So, was playing it real cool. Everyone knows that good protection is key to any tight spot. She was plugging a good mix, cams for days, but nuts too.

    I started feeling good, you know, in the rhythm. And like the hand of god smiting any chance of pride, a #10 BD nut was good ’n stuck. Fixed. My feeble hands quickly resigned their fate. I meekly called for a take.

    The good news was I had my nut tool. Dick’s Nut Tool, ergonomically designed just for such oc- casions. I grabbed my tool by the balls and set that nut free without so much as a second thought. Protection is key, but the tool is just as important.

    Lol. Check out the tool here.

  • Using Night Vision in Extreme Sports

    Note: this post comes from Jim Van over at Integrated Components, a company that sells night vision equipment to extreme athletes.

    night vision ice climbing

    If your favorite outdoor sport is not challenging enough, try doing it on a moonless night under night vision goggles. If you’re a top performer, the learning might be shorter than you think.

    The two major things you’ll need to overcome:

    1. Limited Depth of Focus

    It takes practice. You may not be in an ideal position to reach up and to refocus, so you’ll have to take your best guess as to how far out to set the focus.

    2. Less Than a 180-Degree Field of View

    So far, only one person had an issue with vertigo until she realized she was moving her head up and down way too fast. Everyone is quick to realize there are many more shooting stars every night than are visible to the naked eye!

    Ice climbing, downhill skiing, and dog mushing are among the first three activities we’ve tried.

    Spelunking, fly and float fishing, back country boarding and skiing, motocross and desert racing, as well as Rocky Mountain 4X4 ing on 100 year old mining roads to ghost towns at over 10,000 ft are all on the docket in the coming month.

    Check out our YouTube channel here.

     

     

     

  • Help Rebuild This New Paltz Climbing Coop

    Help Rebuild This New Paltz Climbing Coop

    Source: New Paltz Times

    Donate Here

    When a fire in the early morning hours of Saturday, February 7 destroyed the building at 91 North Chestnut Street in New Paltz, it took away more than the climbing and training gear inside belonging to the members of the New Paltz Climbing Cooperative, who had made the location their home base since 2011. The good news is that nobody was injured in the fire that also destroyed the STS Tire and Auto Center in the building, but the loss of the community gathering space meant more to the co-op’s members than the dollar amount of the equipment they lost.

    The New Paltz Climbing Cooperative was started by a group of friends who shared a passion for rock climbing. “The original idea was to create a space where the climbing community, which is quite large in New Paltz, could come together and climb and train and just have a general place that we could spend time together doing what we love,” says New Paltz High School science teacher Chad Foti. It all began pretty organically, with conversations between Foti and fellow climber Johann Kunz moving from “We should do this” to “I saw a space that might work” to “Hey, this will work.” Other co-founding members got on board — Angela Kunz, Mike and Julie Lillis and Don Spiro — and they secured the location at 91 North Chestnut Street in September of 2011, opening the doors that December.

    new-paltz-climbing-gym-2015-6

    “None of us ever aspired to run a business,” says Foti. “And even now, I don’t think of myself as having run a business. It was very much a community space; the fact that we were able to do it at all is amazing, let alone having had it last as long as it did.”

    By the time of the fire, the cooperative had approximately 100 members, who paid $350 a year to join, gaining them 24/7 access to the site. Maintenance and operations were handled in a communal effort; nobody drew a salary. “It was never meant to be something corporate,” Foti says. “All we were ever interested in was covering rent and insurance. The goal was to create a self-sustaining community climbing and training facility, and we ended up creating this micro-community, this mini-reality within New Paltz.”

    The space had 15-foot-high ceilings and 2,400 square feet of wall space for climbing and bouldering along with exercise equipment and weights. Painted in bright colors in bold street-art style, the cooperative also had a comfortable area with couches for members to hang out in. All of the tools, materials and sweat equity needed to construct the interior was donated by members, who also pooled their resources in equipment, donating items from their home gyms. Climbing holds — which are more expensive than one might think, says Foti, at $8-$10 each — were also donated by members, who’d acquired them over the years while pursuing their rock climbing passion. “Just to give you a sense of scale, the number of climbing holds you need for a space equivalent to ours in the style of the climbing that we did is about two holds per square foot… so 2,400 square feet of space, you can do the math and we’re talking quite a lot of money just in the holds. Just myself, I had thousands of dollars in holds in there. We were able to source these things through the climbing community, but it took years.”

    new paltz climbing coopNow the prospect of starting over from scratch is daunting, but not insurmountable, says Foti. “It’s just something that we have to deal with.” At first he considered throwing in the towel, saying that part of him felt like, “We did it well and we went out at a high point,” but then he thought about the value of the community they’d created among local climbers. “Perspective is an important thing,” he says, “and nobody is pretending that this is a world-class tragedy, but it’s a resource that the New Paltz community had that they took advantage of, and is now at the moment, gone. Any personal wealth that was lost by anybody in this pales in comparison to the community lost. That’s really where it’s at and that’s why I’m still here and pushing forward to rebuild.”

    It will need a groundswell of community support to do that, Foti says; a true grassroots effort. “We’re fortunate that because of the impact we’ve made, we’ve had a myriad of climbing companies offer us holds at cost, which is absolutely phenomenal. But we still need to raise money to take advantage of that. So we’re looking for a new space and any kind of donations that we can to start accruing the kinds of things we need to start again. And the more that people realize what we’re about and what we’re trying to do, the more people will end up utilizing the space once we get it going again.”

    The time frame for rebuilding depends on fundraising and the generosity of the community, he adds, and they hope to stay in New Paltz. “We’re very much open to any possibility, but New Paltz is ideal,” says Foti. “It’s a wonderful place to be a rock climber. We have a unique situation here in that we have excellent, world-class climbing and we’re also really close to other cultural things. Most climbing areas are way out in the middle of nowhere. Yosemite in California is world class, obviously, but the closest true civilization is not close at all. Colorado has some great hamlets where you can kind of live close to the cliffs, but if you live in Denver, or even in Boulder, any of the good stuff is at least 45 minutes to an hour away. In New Paltz, I can literally live, work and play within ten minutes.”

    Foti’s passion for rock climbing is what brought him to the area 12 years ago in the first place, he says. “And the Climbing Cooperative made it an even better place. The co-op was this niche that made New Paltz even more viable as a climbing destination. There are not a lot of places like it, that’s for sure. It’s what you’d like to see in any climbing area. It gave everybody the opportunity, no matter who you were, the space to come and climb and make friends.” The best part about the gym, Foti says, was finding out that as much as he thought he knew who the other climbers in the community were, he found out through opening the space that there were actually many more than he’d been aware of. “It was dumbfounding how few people I knew before and how many connections we made through this gym.”

    Donation amount as of 3/6/15.
    Donation amount as of 3/6/15.

    Donations for rebuilding can be made at www.gofundme.com/rebuildnpcc, where two weeks after the fire, more than $7,000 has already been raised toward the $110,000 goal. And unlike some other crowdfunding sites that require an organization to meet its goal or lose all the funds, GoFundMe allows an organization to keep whatever they raise. There are still fees involved, however, so making a donation through the co-op’s website at www.newpaltzclimbingcoop.com is perhaps preferable, with fewer fees involved. “Either place would be great, though,” says Foti. The group has also begun holding fundraising events that will continue in the months to come, with a 5K run possibly in the works. More information can be found on the website or look for New Paltz Climbing Cooperative on Facebook.

     

  • One World Endeavors And The First January Ascent Of Denali

    One World Endeavors And The First January Ascent Of Denali

    lonnie-dupre-denali

    In early 2014, Lonnie Dupre became the first person to summit Denali in January, an achievement that made headlines all over the world. During the solo ascent, Dupre encountered 100+ mile per hour winds, -60 degree temperatures, and extremely rugged terrain, and he managed to move on through it all while working with only six hours of sunlight each day.

    Only nine expeditions, totaling 16 people, have ever reached the Denali summit in winter, and six deaths occurred during those climbs. Of these previous winter expeditions, four were solo, but none were in January, the darkest and coldest time of the year on the mountain.

    The brutality of Denali in January is what drew Dupre to the mission. Being an accomplished Arctic explorer, he is no stranger to harsh winter conditions. Over the years, only 16 people have ever reached the summit of Denali during winter, though none had achieved it during the month of January. Except for Lonnie Dupre, of course.

    While he’s not conquering the world’s coldest environments, Dupre runs One World Endeavors, the organization he created to create and lead pioneering expeditions in the coldest regions of the globe as a means of advocating for these fragile environments which impact our whole planet.​

    To explain a bit further, Lonnie Dupre recently said, “For as long as I can remember, I have loved snow and ice. As a result, I have spent most of my life exploring the Arctic region. These journeys have brought such joy and beauty to my life that I have dedicated myself to helping preserve these wonderful frozen places. More than ever before, I am driven to share my passion for the Arctic, a region whose health and stability have far-reaching consequences for us all. Knowing that strength is in numbers, I am launching One World Endeavors (OWE) — a means for us to work together to inspire worldwide movements dedicated both to fighting pollution and to addressing climate change. OWE will also be a support tool for leading environmental organizations and legislators who want to inspire large audiences to help with this work.”

    Dupre speaks with a lot of experience, as he has logged over 15,000 miles of travel throughout polar regions and the high arctic, mostly by way of ski, kayak, and sled dog teams. Dupre has also traveled and resided with the local Polar Inuit population, causing him to develop a hearty appreciation for local culture, which is a huge motivation behind the founding of One World Endeavors.

    Some of Lonnie Dupre’s most memorable journeys into the world’s most frozen environments, aside from the January summit of Denali, include a 3,000 mile sled dog crossing of the Northwest Passage during winter, a 6,500 mile journey by way of dog team and kayak to circumnavigate Greenland, and two 650 mile journeys on skis from Canada to the North Pole.

    Dupre currently lives in Grand Marais, Minnesota, and continues to be active in raising awareness for the protection of the Arctic. He has written two books, Greenland: Where Ice Is Born and Life On Ice, has made numerous television appearances around the world, and has worked directly on film projects with National Geographic.

    You can learn more about Lonnie Dupre and One World Endeavors at OneWorldEndeavors.com.

  • Will Gadd Completes Historic First Ice Climb up Niagara Falls

    Will Gadd Completes Historic First Ice Climb up Niagara Falls

    Niagara Falls is the most famous waterfall in the entire world. The falls, which straddle the border of Canada and the United States, welcome 20 million visitors a year and are a national landmark for both countries – one of the world’s first tourist attractions, and simply put, a wonder of nature.

    See the incredible video of the climb above

    Plenty of people have gone down the falls over the years but Will Gadd – recently named a Nat Geo Adventurer of the Year – is the first person to ever go UP the falls. How? Well, he’s one of the world’s best ice climbers, and Niagara Falls was frozen.

    At least, Niagara was frozen enough to climb. “I checked out the spot we were thinking of climbing in the summer,” Gadd said. “You’d be swept away by the torrential downpour then.” But this year’s cold winter slowed water flow, allowing climbable ice to form. “On a warm winter, there’s no climb here.”

    The massive water flow constantly shakes the ground, and makes the ice shelves and walls around you unsteady and unpredictable

    After working with NYS Parks Department and NYS Parks Police, Gadd and his team were able to create a comprehensive plan to ensure the climb could be done safely and the necessary precautions were taken to protect the natural environment, as he put the final touch on one of his most epic years ever as a climber. “It’s one of the most visited places in North America,” Gadd said. “We have to treat it as a jewel, or it won’t work.”

    There were two priorities for the climb – ethics, and safety. “We’re doing it on natural protection,” Gadd said. “No bolts. There won’t be one thing left in the ice that wasn’t there to begin with, and that’s the best possible way to do it.” The line – which sits on the American side of the Horseshoe section of Niagara, near what’s known as Terrapin Point – extends approximately 147 feet from bottom to top.

    It’s a harsh environment and an intense challenge to stay attached to the wall, let alone climb it

    It’s not easy ice, either. “The ice is formed in layers,” Gadd said. “That means there’s a layer of ice, then snow (with a lot of air), then another layer of ice. It’s unstable, for sure.” Will estimates the grade at WI6+, as hard as it gets for this style of climbing. Tools he used include ice axes, crampons, and a specially-designed Black Diamond prototype “ice hook.”

    The day before the climb, Gadd dropped in from above to clear the route of dangerous hanging ice that could break off during his climb. “I was taking off pieces the size of small cars,” he says. After a full day in front of the route, it was ready.

    At one point I was behind the water, climbing on ice that froze behind the falls

    The environment may appear pristine, but it’s anything but peaceful. With 150,000 tons of water flowing over the crest every minute at speeds of nearly 62 mph, the water impact is equivalent to roughly 4,000 eighteen-wheel trucks hitting the ground at the same time.

    “The massive water flow constantly shakes the ground, and makes the ice shelves and walls around you unsteady and unpredictable,” Gadd said. “It’s a harsh environment and an intense challenge to stay attached to the wall, let alone climb it.”

    I was so close to the water, I could reach out and stick my ice tool in the Niagara Falls

    The route starts with an intense traverse over something Will came to call the “cauldron of doom,” where the waterfall slammed into a hole in the ice. “If you go in the ‘cauldron of doom,’ you’re done,” Gadd said. “You can hit rocks, drown, or freeze to death. Above the cauldron, he and his climbing partner Sarah set up a belay station in an ice cave a little smaller than a phone booth.”

    From there, he methodically picked his way up the route, stopping every few meters to add protection in the form of ice screws and climbing quick draws. One of the biggest challenges? Getting really, really wet.

    “I was so close to the water, I could reach out and stick my ice tool in the Niagara Falls,” Gadd said. “At one point I was behind the water, climbing on ice that froze behind the falls. I got [a] whole lot of Niagara down my neck!”

    That climb beat me up. I may have reached the top, but Niagara won the war

    Gadd ascended the route three times, taking about an hour for each ascent. The line lies nearly perfectly on the American-Canadian border – a fitting location for Gadd, who is a citizen of both countries, and the perfect finish to an incredible year that saw him put up a new route on Helmcken Falls, climb ice in Kilimanjaro, and take home top honors at the Ouray Ice Festival.

    So how did it feel to claim victory on top of Niagara? Actually, Will isn’t sure about the “victory.”

    “That climb beat me up. I may have reached the top, but Niagara won the war. At the end of the day I was hypothermic. That waterfall did a lot more damage to me than I did to it!” Victory or not, Gadd accomplished one thing for sure – an historic ice climb on the world’s most iconic waterfall.

    Source: Red Bull

  • Alex Honnold: The Best Of 2014

    Alex Honnold: The Best Of 2014

    Every year is an epic one for Alex Honnold, but 2014 was especially stunning. This is a great video of some of Honnold’s most impressive climbs of the past year. We can only look forward to what’s to come in 2015 from the world’s greatest climber.

  • Tommy Caldwell Crushes Dawn Wall’s 5.14c – Pitch 15

    Tommy Caldwell Crushes Dawn Wall’s 5.14c – Pitch 15

    What Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson were able to accomplish this year is phenomenal – the first free climb ascent of El Capitan’s Dawn Wall in Yosemite.

    To lend some perspective, Caldwell has been working on this climb since 2007. The combination of endurance and perseverance is difficult to comprehend, even to those of us in the climbing community. Caldwell and Jorgeson lived on the wall for three weeks. They would use sand paper to file away the dead skin on their hands.

    The Dawn Wall has 30 pitches. Each pitch is between 100-200 feet, or the length of a rock climbing rope. The easiest pitch of the 30 is rated a 5.11 (learn more about rock climbing ratings here), and there are 5 pitches rated at 5.14 and higher. This represents the upper limit of difficulty seen in the sport over the last decade. The best climbers in the world sometimes takes weeks or months of practice to complete a climb this tough. It’s the hardest free climbing route in history.

    Tommy Caldwell described the holds as the “smallest and sharpest holds I have ever attempted to hold onto.”

  • Siberian Free Soloing

    Siberian Free Soloing

    The first American climbers to ever take to the epic landscape of Solby, Siberia, Brittany Griffith and Jonathan Thesenga, take you on a journey up some of the most exclusive climbing routes in the world with the help of colorful locals.

  • Unearthed: Alex Honnold

    Unearthed: Alex Honnold

    Filmed by The North Face, this awesome video covers an incredible climbing trip taken to the Green River area in Utah by Alex Honnold (arguably the world’s greatest climber) and fellow climbers Matt Segal, Renan Ozturk, and Daniel Woods.

  • In Chicago, 25,000 Square Foot Hybrid Indoor Climbing Opens Its Doors

    In Chicago, 25,000 Square Foot Hybrid Indoor Climbing Opens Its Doors

    Can I just say that Brooklyn Boulders new website is AWESOME?

    Part gallery, part workspace, part “Holy s*** that’s a huge climbing wall!”—the new 25,000 square foot Brooklyn Boulders in Chicago brings together an eclectic mix of the city’s best and most creative under one massive roof.

    “We’re excited to continue our expansion of the Brooklyn Boulders brand into a community we’ve cared about for ages” said co-founder Lance Pinn. “Having grown so fond of this community during our years at Babson College, it’ brings us great joy to be able to bring this one-of-a-kind facility to the inspirational people of the Greater Chicago area.”

    The BKB Chicago facility features 25,000 square feet of rock climbing terrain including 50’ walls, fitness equipment, a weight room, yoga studio, event spaces, an art gallery and innovative amenities that aim to bring inspiring experiences to our community. Members and guests of Brooklyn Boulders Chicago can enjoy a number of exciting amenities including:

    Active Collaborative Workspace – A dedicated space built on the premise that physicality stimulates innovation and creativity, this space is located on the upper mezzanine that overlooks the North Building bouldering area. Designed with the innovator in mind, there are stand-up desks, conference tables, and pull-up bars, intended to foster, ideation, and collaboration in unconventional ways.

    Fitness Equipment and Yoga Studio – One enclosed and two open spaces designed for weight training, cardio fitness, and strength training, complement the 25,000 square feet of climbing terrain. Various fitness courses ranging from capoeira to obstacle race training will be lead regularly by trained local professionals and be available to members daily.

    Cafe and Retail – Our friends at Paramount Events are our local café partners and will be opening up in our retail and café space in early 2015. These features, offered to suit the needs of our community, are open to all of our customers and will feature food and drink, apparel, and climbing gear.

    When discussing the diversity of offerings found at Brooklyn Boulders Chicago, Senior Cultural Chameleon Jesse Levin said, “At BKB Chicago, our mission is to offer progressive climbing and fitness experiences while providing an unconventional platform to bring the arts, music, culture, and entrepreneurial communities together.

    Congratulations, team BKB!